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A Toast to Tequila

Mention the renegade beverage Tequila or its partner in crime Mezcal and you are likely to get sour looks, worm-soaked legends, or The Champs’ Latin-inspired surf instrumental.  Although made from the same stuff as fairy tales, tequila demands a respect equal to whiskey or wine in connoisseur culture. In the United States, tequila menus and entire bars devoted to the drink continue to increase in popularity among the restaurant and night-life scene.  From down-the-hatch shots with lime and salt, to margarita-inspired conga-line hangovers, to top-shelf savory sips, these notorious liquors have come a long way from their desperado days to embody the taste of  modern Mexico. With 300 varieties ranging in price from $5 a shot to $175 a pour, it’s easy to see how tequila is a spirit not to be taken lightly.

Before the arrival of the Spaniards, fermented sap from the Maguey plant was extracted into a beverage known as ‘pulque.’  Pulque holds the esteem of being North America’s first distilled drink. Aside from that, origins of the liquor seem as ethereal as the effects it produces.  Tequila branches from this phantom lineage by way of a small town with the same name in the state of Jalisco.  In the ancient Nuahatl language, “tequila” translates to “place of the plant harvest” and represents the relationship between the region and the raw material—the Blue Agave.

There are over 130 species of agave.  However, only one variety is used in the production of tequila according to standards set by the Mexican government.  That variety is the Blue Agave, or Agave Tequilana Weber Azul. A common misconception is that tequila is made from a cactus.  The Agave is actually closer in relation to succulents like the Lily or the Amaryllis even though it looks spiky in appearance.  Only the hearts of the plant are used in distillation while the thick leaves are processed into fiber.  Other varieties may be used in the formulation of tequila’s kindred spirit Mezcal, but only the Blue Agave is used to distill tequila.  Mature agave at the time of harvest can grow 5 to 8 feet tall, span 7 to 12 feet across and, although not a cactus, can live up to 15 years!

Another myth infusing the agave spirits of tequila and mezcal turns over the worm.  Drinkers and non-drinkers alike recognize the connection.  However, like all things Tequila, origins of this curious practice of adding worms to bottles survives mostly as folklore, even though many believe it is more marketing strategy than authentic Mexican Tradition.  In fact, only Mezcal carries the worm, this again due to the Mexican standards authority, Norma Oficial Mexicana (NOM). The worms are the thoroughly pickled larvae of the moth species Hypopta Agavis and, although not found in higher-priced bottles of Mezcal, are believed to enhance the flavor as well as act as an aphrodisiac.  Viewed as a delicacy by many in Mexico, the Gusano Rojo (Red Worm) and the Gusano Blanco (White Worm) are safe to eat, even if their properties and histories are debatable.

Knowing tequila is not cactus and has no worm, it now comes down to the matter of taste.  Tequila divides into three groups agreed upon by aficionados in the industry.  Like many beverages, Tequilas are classified according to their age.  Blanco (white), also referred to as Plata (silver), is the youngest of the three types.  Tequila Blanco is aged less than two months and is distinguished through its abrasive flavor.  Also identified in this category is Tequila Oro (gold).  This is a blend of the young Tequila Blanco and a more-aged variety, often mixed with coloring to resemble older vintages.  Second of the three classes is Tequila Reposado (rested).  This mid-aged tequila is known for its peppery aftertaste and has an age greater than two months but less than one year.  The third and final variety is Tequila Anejo (aged).  Tequila Anejo mellows for a period between one year and three years and finishes smoother on the palate as a result.

Aside from these distinctions, the sky (or the floor) is the limit.  From the heart of the agave all the way to expensive, individually-numbered collectable keepsake bottles, the taste of tequila really boils down to the spirit of personal preference.  Sipping, shooting, mixing or just plain drinking are all part of the charm bottled in this passionate product from Mexico.  Curious connoisseurs searching for the flavor that suits best may even find themselves, suitcase in hand, bouncing across the border for a measure of Mezcal complete with worm.  No matter how it’s served, the taste as well as the mystery surrounding this potent potable are sure to leave any traveler thirsting for more of Mexico.

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Bhutanese Archery

It may seem counterintuitive for a devoutly Buddhist nation such as Bhutan to choose a sport like archery as its favorite pastime.  Buddhists have a profound reverence for all living things, so participating in a sport where the equipment is primarily designed for hunting or warfare seems a bit out of place.  However, judging by the fact that nearly all villages in the Kingdom of Bhutan have an archery range, passion for the sport is not to be taken lightly.

Popularity of the sport can be traced all the way back to a 15th century legend.  During this time, it is believed Lama Drukpa Kuenley shot an arrow from Nangkartse in Tibet to the place where he felt his lineage would thrive.  Following the path of the arrow led him to Bhutan, land of the thunder dragon, which came to represent the arrow that had been flung, with the valley of Thimpu being considered as the notch.  Archery symbolism is present in Buddhist beliefs and often represents the offering of prayers.  The declaration of archery as the national sport came in 1971 when Bhutan joined the United Nations.

Today the matches are a festival of brightly-colored archers and spectators alike.  In fact, the activity is centered as much around the pageantry of the festival as it is around the competition of hitting the bulls-eye.  Archers go to great lengths to distract or demoralize their opponents—even going so far as to dance in front of the other’s target!  This behavior is not just limited to the archers, it can also be seen from the women in the crowd who act as cheerleaders for a particular team while shouting raucous and degrading comments about the other team’s heritage or sexual prowess.  All of the hullaballoo is in jest and no one lets it ruffle their feathers or takes much offense.

Wielding the traditional hand-carved bamboo bow, participants compete on teams of 13 with 2 reserves for a total of 15 players per team.  Two points are given if the arrow hits any part of the target.  If it hits the bulls-eye, 3 points are scored; and if the arrow sticks in the ground within one arrow’s distance of the target, 1 point is given.  The first team to 25 points is declared the winner.  To play, the archers are given two shots during their turn and the field is set up like a horseshoe pitch, so team members shuttle between the targets in between shots.

Now, for the hard part.  Not only is hitting the target difficult, but the walking back and forth across the pitch can be tiresome as well.  The reason is because the small wooden targets are placed 140 meters apart!  That’s nearly 3 times the distance of Olympic standards (a mere 50 meters) and probably why archers take the risk of taunting their rivals while standing in front of the target.  The rival discouragement is a large part of the spectacle.  However, the omission of this competitive game chatter may also be one of the reasons why Bhutanese archers have not excelled in Olympic competitions.  What the Bhutanese consider good-natured fun, the Olympic committee considers poor sportsmanship.  Archery is the only Olympic sport in which Bhutanese athletes compete.

The Bhutanese have been involved in the games since 1984 and in the 2004 Olympics they made it to the second qualifying round.  They remain hopeful that Olympic gold is in their future, and many coaches from expert teams feel confident about the natural talents of these archers.  For now, as in the past, the Buddhist bowmen from Bhutan, armed only with prayers, continue to play for the love of the sport and the next chance to poke fun at their friends.

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Chicha or Chicha?

It’s OK to confuse the Peruvian corn beer, Chicha with the popular musical tradition of the same name.  The two remain close to each other and represent their country in a way that should not be overlooked.  The meanings of the word can be interchanged in such a way that becomes universal.  Chicha de jora, the drink, is made by fermenting a mash of sprouted or germinated corn.  Chicha, as a style of music, blends Colombian cumbias with Andean folklore while stirring in an eclectic array of foreign sounds.  From psychedelic surf rock of the 60’s, to middle-eastern rhythms, to Beethoven, to Peruvian Creole, Chicha music does not discriminate.  The heritage invites a diverse assortment of styles to participate.  The appeal of chicha is that both the beer and the music are made for the masses.

Served at room temperature and showing a cloudy amber color, chicha is a favorite among Peruvians because a quart of it costs about 10 cents.  Locals are known to gather in places where Chicha is brewed; usually a simple bar or home flying a red flag or balloon advertising a fresh batch.  Over the years, chicha drinkers would bring instruments to these places and, from there, a musical tradition was born drawing on songs and subjects familiar to the crowd.

Before the birth of this musical tradition lies the 1000-year-old remains of what is believed to be the largest brewing facility of its kind unearthed in Peru at Cerro Baul.  Discovered by archeologists from the Field Museum in Chicago, this site shows evidence of beer making in the Wari Empire on a very large scale.  Scholars reporting on the dig believe the elite members of Wari society hosted massive gatherings where they invited members of the public in reward for their service to the state.  Being asked to participate in these drinking festivals was a distinct honor.  The festivals were also significant because they allowed diverse social groups with different languages and customs to merge into a single political structure.

Now, 1000 years later, chicha music has come to identify life in the cities associated with the oil boom of the late 60’s.  Like Jamaican Ska or Congolese Soukous, chicha is both a raw and sophisticated hybrid that never seemed to take root outside Peru.  Even the better-educated Peruvians tend to frown on the style since it is music made by the working class.  Oil-rich cities of the Amazon like Pucallpa, Moyobamba, and Iquitos pioneered the style.  Here, bands such as Juaneco y Su Combo, Los Mirlos, and Los Tigres de Tarapoto sang about the poor man’s search for parties, romance, and love while working for the ever-corrupt and often-cruel oil industry of the rainforest.

As migration spread to the capital city of Lima, so too did chicha music, taking hold of the young, mostly blue-collar, crowd.  Although the songs speak of love, a political theme detailing the exploitation of indigenous cultural groups cannot be ignored.  Since the movement did not gain international appeal from intellectuals at that time, the sounds were largely ignored.  Fortunately for all, because of travelers and those willing to dig deep into world-music selections, chicha will continue to be heard.  Peruvians, proud of their heritage, continue to play the canned sounds of cheap keyboards, congas, timbales, and low-end guitar effects for the worker who has earned the right to celebrate his or her efforts.

Like the Incas before them at Cerro Baul, friendly Peruvians of modern-day tavern culture do not discriminate; instead they invite travelers to the simple bars where a red flag flies for those looking for a fresh batch of chicha.

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Travel to Mexico’s Yucatan & Chiapas

The California Native, a Los Angeles-based international adventure-travel company, announces the launch of small-group tours to Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula and State of Chiapas.  These small-group tours, featuring Mayan archeological attractions, are escorted by experienced bilingual guides from the United States.  Group size is limited to a maximum of 16 persons for both the 7-day Mayan Adventure and the 13-day Mayan & Chiapas Adventure.  Scheduled departures in 2008 are October 26 – November 7 for the 13-day tour and November 9 – 15 for the 7-day tour.  Both trips conveniently begin and end in Cancun.

The Yucatan Peninsula is the homeland of the Mayan civilization whose mighty empire lasted over a thousand years before the arrival of European explorers.  Small-group tours of this area include visits to these archeological sites: Tulum, Uxmal, Edzna, Ek Balam, and Chichen Itza.  Matched with the quaint charm of the colonial cities Valladolid, Campeche and Merida, guests share a thorough look at Mexico’s past and present.  Guides are well-versed in the history and culture of these societies and enjoy pointing out the unique character of places off the beaten path.

Building onto the 7-day sights mentioned above, the 13-day tour adds the wonders of Mexico’s Chiapas State.  Here, along the border of Guatemala, the people of Chiapas wear traditional costumes, live in grass-roofed huts, and plant cornfields on near-vertical hillsides.  Guests with The California Native journey to the mountain town of San Cristobal de las Casas, the villages of Tzotil & Tzetal Indians, swim at the magnificent Agua Azul falls, and travel by boat through the Canon del Sumidero before visiting the Mayan ruins at Palenque.

Travelers seeking independent arrangements may consider The California Native exclusive tours of Yucatan & Chiapas.  On these tours, hotel reservations, most meals, bilingual drivers / guides, transportation, and entrance fees are provided at reasonable prices–leaving travelers free to explore at their own pace. For a free booklet describing these tours as well as other destinations, call The California Native at 800-XXX-XXXX.

For 25 years, The California Native has been leading adventurous people to exotic places all over the globe.  Based on the success of escorted tours throughout Mexico’s Copper Canyon, the company thought it necessary to also promote these regions of the Yucatan and Chiapas where Mayan ruins speckle the landscape between Caribbean beaches and inland jungles.

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Who is Our Lady of Guadalupe?

Travelers to Mexico soon become familiar with the image of the Virgin of Guadalupe.  Prevalent in murals, churches, and homes; this image can also be found in roadside shrines, restaurants, even automobile decals.  To the Mexican people, the Lady of Guadalupe acts as an icon for both the Catholic faith as well as national pride.  Her likeness is similar to the universal image of Virgin Mary.  However, her popularity among the mestizos of Latin America paints a colorful history rich in tradition and speculation.

Many, if not all, religions attest to experiences bestowed onto the righteous as visions from above.  The Lady of Guadalupe is no different.  Written in the native Nahuatl language, The Nican Mopohua describes the appearance of the icon in the New World.  The book describes the meetings between Virgin Guadalupe and a peasant named Juan Diego. It was 1531, and this vision startled the native Juan Diego as he crossed the barren hill of Tepeyac, outside of what is now known as Mexico City.  There on the rocky soil she asked him to build a church.

From here She sent him to request the aid of Bishop Zaramunga.   The problem with dismissing this as merely a vision of the supernatural is that the Virgin requested Juan Diego to have a church built on the desolate mountaintop.  The story holds that (Sp).  The Bishop considered what was being asked and demanded Juan Diego bring back a sign from Her.  Our Lady complied, ordering Juan Diego to gather an assortment of Castillian roses from the mountain.  This confused Juan Diego because, not only was it the middle of December, those roses did not thrive in the harsh ground.  Miraculously, the roses sought for were found growing where She had claimed.  Juan Diego collected the roses in his tilma—an inferior cloth woven from the fibers of the agave cactus.  After She had arranged the roses in Juan Diego’s cloak, She wrapped them, explaining that he should not open the parcel until he returned to the bishop.  Juan Diego obeyed and upon delivery of the bundle it was found that the roses, still fresh with the scent of morning dew, were accompanied by an image of the lady stained into the poor native’s tilma.  The Bishop was shocked, moved, and ordered the construction of the church at once.

The significance of these meetings was as substantial as it was unprecedented.  Substantial enough, that in the twenty years since Spanish colonists had come to the Americas, 9 million inhabitants of the indigenous population, who had heretofore cultivated a spirituality closely rooted to polytheism with rituals that included human sacrifice, had been converted to Christianity.

The religious significance of this event was not the only thing that would foster the presence of this icon in Mexican culture.  This same icon that lead to the conversion of Christianity was also a powerful figure symbol of the Mexican Revolution.  In 1810, Miguel Hidalgo sounded the cry for independence when he declared “death to the Spaniards and long live the Virgin of Guadalupe!”  He and his men wore hats with the Virgin’s image emblazoned on them.  As a revolutionary, Hidalgo was not the only one who employed the icon of the Lady Guadalupe.  Emiliano Zapata and his men carried Guadalupan Banners as they stormed into the Federal District of Mexico City, here again mixing political fervor into religious zeal.  As it stands now she carries a double identity as figure of devotion for both church and state.

Now, of course, all of this makes for great lore and legend.  Religious and political causes often seek a unifying element to rally the masses, but what is it about this icon which continues to shape the destiny of Mexico?  How is it this poor-quality cactus cloth, with a shelf life of no more than twenty years, has been preserved for nearly 475 years and continues to baffle scientists as to its origin? What is it about her gaze that remains so shrouded in mystery?

In 1787, 256 years after the original image was discovered and 230 years after the original fabric the image is printed on should have decomposed, Dr. Jose Bartolache invited artists to render copies of the image.  Studies were made on how the material would withstand the weathering from the environment inside of the Pocito de Guadalupe chapel.  What they had found in 1796 was that in all the reproductions the paint had chipped off and the fabric had worn away.  While the original, even though it was not kept under any protective layer, had not deteriorated in 475 years.  Quite curious considering that for 116 years after it was found, it was exposed to temperature changes, humidity, smoke from incense and candles, and covered with the kisses of thousands of those paying homage as well as the continuous contact from devotee’s scapulars and rosaries.  Here it does seem likely that some aging would occur. 

Rigorous scholarly debate tries to pin down some facts about the supernatural origins of not only the cloth, but the image on the cloth as well.  From studies led by Nobel Chemists on the composition of the paint used, to speculation derived from restoration experts who have used stereomicroscopes to analyze the paint, to scientists who have investigated brush strokes under infrared lights, volumes of research has been published.  Even opthamologists, doctors specializing in the study of vision and the eye, have taken on the task of deciphering the much disputed image of what may be reflecting in her gaze.  The faithful have suggested the reflection of Juan Diego as he stood before the Virgin is apparent in the pupil of the image although, after magnifying it 2500 times, researchers have dismissed the image as an illusion.  For the skeptic, it should also be added that in 1791, a silversmith who was hired to clean the frame had spilled highly corrosive nitric acid on the tilma leaving only a small stain that is fading with time.  If that is not a testament to the viability durability of the icon, an event in 1921 should be mentioned.  In this year, a factory worker laid explosives near the icon which, when detonated, cracked the steps of the main alter, shattered neighboring windows and dismantled a brass crucifix.  Despite the blast, the fabric which holds this symbol of Catholic devotion in the New World was unharmed.  Since then, She is kept behind bulletproof glass and moved to a vault every night.

From this, it is easy to comprehend how, regardless of scientific inquiry, Our Lady of Guadalupe still mystifies the estimated 14 million people who visit her basilica annually and make her home in Mexico City the most visited Marian shrine as well as most popular catholic sanctuary in the world.  Each year, an incredible list of miracles and cures are attributed to her.  25 popes have officially honored Our Lady of Guadalupe.  The feast of the Virgin of Guadalupe is celebrated on Dec 12 and in 1999 this date was declared a liturgical holy day for the entire continent. 

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The “Other” Los Angeles

The California Native, a tour operator specializing in international adventure travel, celebrates 25 years of leading trips off the beaten path. Launched in June 1983, the company remains based in the community of Westchester near Los Angeles World Airport.  This silver anniversary comes as a proud moment for Lee Klein who founded the outfit and continues to scout new locations world-wide in search of tours for the active traveler.

Klein, a graduate from Loyola Marymount University with a Master’s Degree in Business Administration began his professional life as a corporate manager and college professor until the day he decided to venture into the adventure business.  As he did, he took to heart the lessons he taught his students on how to succeed in business: “keep it simple, and learn to do it right before adding new products and services.”

The initial offering from The California Native was a tour billed as “The Other Los Angeles.”  This day-long excursion traced the route of the San Andreas Fault from the Mojave Desert to the San Gabriel Mountains without ever leaving Los Angeles County.  The tour became so popular that colleges in Ventura, Los Angeles, and Orange Counties offered them as part of their community-education programs.  From this, the company expanded its coverage to include tours to the Channel Islands, Santa Barbara Wine Country, and other uniquely California destinations. “My family has lived in Los Angeles for generations,” writes Klein in the company newsletter, “hence the name The California Native.”

To further satisfy the growing client base led across borders to develop The California Native’s most popular trip—escorted and independent tours to Mexico’s Copper Canyon.  These tours feature the Chihuahua al Pacifico Railroad (labeled as one of the most spectacular train rides in the western hemisphere) and highlights one of the most primitive indigenous cultures still subsisting in North America—the Tarahumara.

Today, The California Native offers tours to Costa Rica, Mexico, Patagonia, Peru, the Galapagos Islands, Ireland, Bhutan, Myanmar, China, and Laos. Currently in development is a tour to Romania.  Here, travelers may visit the Danube delta and the homeland of Vlad the Impaler, better known as Count Dracula.  For a free newsletter and booklets detailing these trips, please call The California Native at 800-XXX-XXXX.

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Trekking The Inca Trail

Most travelers to Machu Picchu choose to take the three-hour scenic train ride from Cuzco, but another option is to hike the trail made by the footsteps of the ancient Incas.  The Inca Trail is considered to be one of the most scenic paths in the world.  Since promotional literature suggests any “reasonably fit” person could complete the journey, The California Native’s very own Ellen Klein decided to test her stamina against mountain passes at 14,000 feet in search of the “Lost City.”

In The California Native’s company newsletter, Klein describes her experiences: “. . . crossing a footbridge over the Urubamba River, we began our trek. After a few hours of easy hiking we stopped for lunch. Much to our surprise, in a restful grassy meadow, there was a dining tent, complete with table and chairs, warm water to wash in, and a hot meal. That afternoon we continued and were treated to views of snow-capped mountains, llamas grazing in the fields, flowers, meadows and lakes.”  Guests trekking the Inca Trail with The California Native are provided with porters, guides, and cooks who travel ahead carrying up to 50 pounds on their backs. Klein recalls: “Each time we stopped for lunch or for the night, they were already at the site, the tents were up, and our cook was preparing us a sumptuous meal.”  

Historians have found “Inca trails” all over Peru. The popular trail now known as The Inca Trail was most likely the “royal” road between Cuzco and Machu Picchu.  Used by royalty and pilgrims traveling to the sacred city, the trail was built for men on foot and their lightly-packed llamas. Interlocking stones line the mountain providing thousands of steps and breathtaking views in all directions.  Klein writes: “The very popular trail hosts many hikers, but never really seems crowded.”

Ellen, a seasoned traveler and wife of The California Native’s founder Lee Klein, researches new destinations for the company’s ever-intrepid and growing client base as well as writes articles for the newsletter.  Here she vividly captures some of the highpoints of her journey: “On day two we triumphantly crossed the highest pass, known as ‘Dead Woman Pass,’ just under 14,000 feet, then began the steep descent, with spectacular views on the way down.  If day two was the most difficult, day three was the loveliest. As we crossed the final pass, the Urubamba Valley and the mountain of Machu Picchu lay before us. We walked down the steps through the terraces of Intipata (cloud-level town) to our final campsite at Winay Wayna.  The next morning we rose before dawn, to arrive at the Intipunku (Gate of the Sun) in time to watch the sun rise over the ‘Lost City.’ As the sun came over the mountain, the ruins slowly emerged from dark shadows turning a glorious golden color.”

The California Native prides itself in developing tours for the active traveler who enjoys creature comforts—even in the most remote locations.  For twenty-five years The California Native has led adventurous people to exotic places all over the globe and continues to scout for new destinations off the beaten path.  For a free newsletter or brochures detailing tours in Peru, Mexico, Costa Rica, Bhutan, and elsewhere; contact The California Native by phone 800 XXX XXXX or visit the website at calnative dot com.

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